Koliva (Memorial Dish) - Eleni Saltas (2024)

By: Eleni Saltas

The tradition of offering Koliva, a wheat berry-based dish, is deeply rooted in Orthodox traditions. It is a staple at Orthodox Christian memorial services, most commonly for 40-day or annual anniversaries of a loved one’s passing. As it symbolizes eternal life, it is an especially important component of such services.

The first time I made koliva was in 2019, following the passing of my Papou Chris Metos, who was a beacon of positivity for his entire 96 years of life. After decorating and shaping the koliva into a mound, I brought it to the church to be blessed on his 40 day memorial. To my surprise, many congregants asked for a recipe, which I regrettably lacked because at that time I honestly just combined several recipes from different sources and Greek neighbors.

Although the process is beautiful and an honor to make, I had hoped to not make koliva for a long time. However, in October 2023—my Yiayia Stella Rose Saltas died at the remarkable age of 96, mirroring my Papou Chris’ longevity. I learned a lot from her:the power of family, how to laugh at the little things, how to cook and how to enjoy the company of others thanks to her love of bingo. With her passing, my kitchen lost its melody. As the 40 day memorial of her passing approached, I knew I had to make a koliva for her. I didn’thaveto, I wanted to. I wanted the kitchen to sing again. I wanted to honor my yiayia.

-The ingredients of Koliva represent numerous stages of our life and death cycles. The wheat berries represent the body of the deceased and are an expression of eternal life. While slowly boiling the wheat berries and laying the grains out to dry, my thoughts quickly fell upon my yiayia. She took her time with everything—cooking, walking, talking and right then I felt her with me still.

The warm spices of cinnamon and clove that coat the koliva represent a life well lived. I added extra for Yiayia Stella Rose. Heaven promises no sadness or sorrow, so adding a pop of green from parsley (or mint) is used to impart that message. A dusty layer of powdered sugar symbolizes the sweet welcome into heaven and life with Christ. I know she is happy, looking down on her family. She always smiled. Throughout the process I was comforted, also while mourning and remembering the life of my sweet Stella Saltas, who’s memory I’ll always hold dear.

While mostly associated with Orthodox Christian ceremonies today, the roots of koliva trace back to Ancient Greece. The tradition has endured through the centuries. Crafting koliva weaves tradition, faith, and a celebration of life and the eternal connection with those who have passed on.

Dedicated to Chris Metos (born June 28, 1922-died April 26, 2019) and Stella Saltas (born October 14, 1927-died October 15, 2023).

Two days before:

Soak the wheat in the morning or overnight.

One day before:

Boil the wheat and let it dry for at least 4 hours to overnight (no more than 8 hours).

Night before:

Transfer to a bowl and mix ingredients together, cover and refrigerate.

Morning of service:

Decorate with powdered sugar and toppings.

• 3 cups wheat berries*

• 1 cinnamon stick (optional)

• 3 heaping tablespoons honey

• ¾ cups walnuts, chopped

• ¾ cups almonds, chopped

• 1 pomegranate, deseeded

• 1 cup dried cranberries

• ¼ cup raisins

• ½ cups graham cracker, lightly crushed

• ½ teaspoon ground cloves

• 3 teaspoons cinnamon

• ¼ cup fresh parsley, chopped
  Topping:

• 1 ½ cups graham cracker, lightly crushed

• powdered sugar, for dusting (as needed)

• White Jordan almonds, for decorating

Step 1

Prep: Rinse the wheat berries thoroughly, and then soak in water for 8 hours or overnight. Discard any wheat berry “skins” that rise to the surface.

Step 2

When ready, drain and cook the wheat in a pot of boiling water until tender but not mushy (about 45 minutes to 1 hour). I like to add a cinnamon stick to the water while the wheat is boiling for extra flavor. Drain in a colander for about 1 hour to remove any excess moisture before placing on towels.

Step 3

Set up lint free tea towels on your counter or any free space and spread the wheat berries in a single layer. Allow to dry for at least 4 hours or overnight. Note: they don’t need to be bone dry, as prolonged drying can harden the edges.

Step 4

Assemble the koliva: place the wheat berries in a large mixing bowl. Add the honey, chopped nuts, pomegranates, cranberries, raisins, ½ cup crushed graham crackers, ground cloves, cinnamon and chopped parsley. Mix until well combined and adjust for taste if necessary.

Step 5

Transfer the mixture to a serving bowl or dish, shaping into a traditional mound or round shape. Add the remaining crushed graham crackers on top and then use wax or parchment paper to pat down the ingredients and smooth and shape with your hands.
Dust the top with a layer of powdered sugar. I again like to smooth the top with parchment paper. Decorate as desired with Jordan almonds, edible candies, almonds, or pomegranates.

Note on decorating:

You can decorate the top with Jordan almonds, edible candies (like I have in the photos), almonds, or pomegrantes.