Michael BarnesAustin American-Statesman
I didn't expect this.
Of all the crossroads, backroads and boulevards that I've explored in Texas, there was no way to predict that Nacogdoches would be the place where the communal spaces were consistently open, shared and socially interwoven by the locals and visitors alike.
You can witness it all over. Country and city types. Old and young. Town and gown. Male and female. Wealthy and wanting. Black, brown, white. Gay, straight, queer.
We were everywhere.
More: Say yes to everything: From upscale to diners, here's where to eat and drink in Lubbock
While the food and drink in this small city of 32,000 folks pleased us at every stop — sometimes served in cleverly updated historical settings — it was the social mix that made the most lasting impression.
Without further ado, here are 10 (or more) places to eat, drink and interact with locals.
1. 1st City Café at the Fredonia Hotel
Start your pilgrimage here. The large, curving dining room is inviting enough, but you might consider dining al fresco not far from the pool at this miraculously revitalized midcentury hotel. The service is impeccable. For late lunch, I ordered the shrimp po' boy to salute the region's Cajun influence, while my friend chose pimento cheese for the parallel Southern legacy. My breakfast one morning presented me with a tower of perfect pancakes along with utterly crisp bacon. Bonus: Without asking, the staff delivers one iced tea or coffee to go — gratis. (200 N. Fredonia St.)
More: Where the locals say to eat and drink in Waco
2. Clear Springs for all things fried and fun
Among the DeWitt family's social, civic and business projects in East Texas, this one comes with an extra helping of mass appeal. (The DeWitt family made their start in the chicken industry; they also recently revived the Fredonia Hotel.) They transformed a large brick industrial structure near the railroad tracks just west of downtown into a "country casual" restaurant with roadside decor that feels more authentic than usual. Clear Springs Restaurant prides itself on its catfish, rightly, but it also offers "world famous onion rings" and an array of dishes that echo the populist cuisine of next-door Louisiana. Bizarrely, despite the tall ceilings and hard surfaces, the noise of the full house did not clang in our ears, a calming experience similar to what we encountered elsewhere in town. (211 Old Tyler Road)
3. Dolli's Diner for all the comforts
Every Texas town square should be anchored by an old-fashioned, yet updated diner like this one. We ate late breakfast there one day and I ordered the chicken-fried steak. I was not disappointed. The slight darkness of the cream gravy slathered on the dish predicted the full taste of a busy grill. In keeping with the theme of this column, every class of Nacogdoches, local or visiting, blended easily in this friendly oasis. (116 S. Pecan St.)
4. Roma's Italian Kitchen surprises with a touch of class
One evening, the threat of repeat storms confined us to the downtown district near the Fredonia Hotel. Boy, did we luck out. Inside an old brick building, renovated with the utmost class, we dined on cannelloni and other warming Italian fare, complemented by sturdy red wine. Turns out the family that owns Roma's — here and in other nearby cities — is originally from Albania. Benvenuto! Advice to the founders: Don't expand your restaurant group too quickly. Preserve the well-earned quality that we experienced on a stormy night. (124 E. Main St.)
More: In San Antonio, do visit the Pearl District, a jewel among the city's tourist sites
5. Fredonia Brewery for pizza and suds
The beer, made onsite in a shiny brewhouse, is served at a long, curving bar, where local "characters" gathered. Yet the equally alluring food, lightly puffy pies, can be had at the Rebellion Pizza trailer parked out on the patio. (Like so many spots in town, it is named after one or more of the numerous revolts staged here.) The weather varied during our stay in Nac, but it was hot and humid when we ordered our summery hefeweizens, then we devoured our personal pizzas, one cheesy, the other meaty, on the shaded deck. (138 N. Mound S.)
6. Red House Winery for a nip or three
The owners of Red House, we were told by a barkeep, considered borrowing the "Fredonia" name, which refers to one of the rebellious polities once based in Nacogdoches. Instead, inspired by a Texas Historical Marker out front, they named the long, deep building after a historic home. A long counter up front is well tended; a club room in the back beckoned us to stay longer with the club crowd. Clearly a place for mid-sized events. The wine selections were heavy on High Plains reds, but I chose a refreshing roussanne, very close to a viognier, more than once. (108 E. Pilar St.)
7. Taquito El Jalisience stands out in a crowd
No scarcity of Mexican or Tex-Mex joints in this college town, especially along North Street (Business U.S. 59). Yet one stood out from the others because so many locals whom we consulted pegged it as their favorite. My guess is that the big-timbered place was, at one point, a mid-range steakhouse, now decorated festively in the general manner of Jalisco. I ordered the stuffed chile Monterrey, thick and cheesy, that confirmed the influences of interior Mexico. (3217 North St.)
More: Here are 10 reasons why Corpus Christi is the most promising city in Texas
8. Barkeeps and Macklemore's are, indeed, bars, but more
The building does not promise culinary delight, much less Asian fusion. In fact, Barkeeps (3308 North St.) looks a bit like a former disco stuck in a suburban zone, with a still-popular bar up front, and a wide, tall space in the back, now lined with booths, mixed with free tables. Still, we enthused over our nutty pad Thai and curry-forward spinach paneer. Closer to campus, Macklemore's (2304 North St.) feels like a lively but not overwhelming neighborhood pub, the kind where faculty and grad students might hang out. The drinks were made exactly to order, and I couldn't get over my light and extremely tasty tacos.
9. Pemberley's at the Jones House for tea, lunch
If a Southern Gothic novella comes to mind when you enter this meticulously decorated Victorian manse, designed by German immigrant Diedrich Anton Wilhelm Rulfs, do not feel alone. We were the only guests and we could not be happier, wrapped in the cool darkness of its downstairs rooms. We ordered salad samples. Because they were out of Waldorf, our server added a generous heaping of fresh fruit salad to our plates. At any moment, we expected Eudora Welty to appear on the staircase up to the guest rooms. (141 N Church St.)
10. More spots that locals love
It should be noted that the prices at all the spots mentioned in this column are reasonable compared to what one typically pays for the same kind of offerings in bigger Texas cities. The one exception, high-end The Republic Steakhouse at the Fredonia Hotel, we skipped this time in part because my traveling companion is a vegetarian, and why pay premium for an array of sides?
That said, locals talked up these eateries:
- Brendyn's BBQ — We did stop by this authentic joint for the music on a hot afternoon.
- Kinfolks Restaurant — Good for morning meals and people-watching in Northwest Nacogdoches, locals say.
- La Michoacana Meat Market — A grocery store and taqueria with delicious food we hear.
- SuSu’s Popcornand Candy Cafe — Would have been perfect for a snack or dessert, but we must have walked right past it several times downtown.
- Butcher Boys — This hamburger spot received multiple endorsem*nts.
- NacBurger— Has some of the best catfish, burgers, gyros, one local told us.
- Naca Valley Vineyard — We did not venture up this way. Maybe next time. A suitable place to repeat the tried-and-true saying: "Always leave them wanting more."
Michael Barnes writes about the people, places, culture and history of Austin and Texas. He can be reached at mbarnes@gannett.com. Sign up for the free weekly digital newsletter, Think, Texas, at statesman.com/newsletters, or at the newsletter page of your local USA Today Network paper.
